Eagle on the prowl along the coast

There are  lovely bald headed  eagles that live and nest all along the  Margaree River. They're there , but it's not always that easy to find them . 
They'll usually do their "fishing" along the river in the morning and in the evening. 
They'll   also come to the ocean coast to do some of their  fishing and that can be at any time of the day . 
This fellow is a fairly  large one. 
These pictures were taken this October the day after a storm and was taken from maybe a distance of 200 feet.

The Fall colours of the Margaree Trail

This is  a snapshot taken along the Cabot Trail at North East Margaree to show you the "fall colours". This year, the colours started early,  as far back as late August , but here we are now past mid October and the colours are still in "peak".
The stage of the colours will also vary depending on whether you are inland or travelling along the coast or what we call "up in the highlands".  These three photos are taken inland .  Along the coast , the colours have started to fade . They'll only last through one more wind or one more heavy rain .
We all like to know when to tell people to come and visit to see the colours in their "prime".  This is very hard to predict , but from October 1 to 10 seems to be a pretty good window , but this year right up the the 20th has been good.

Water , water everywhere

The key to enjoying your travels along the Margaree Trail is the realization that no matter where you are in the Margaree Valley , you are on the water or very near the water. Check the map . 
The "Ocean"
The ocean coast along Route 219 and the Cabot Trail gives you ocean in many ways . You have the four beaches , namely Chimney Corner , Whale Cove , Margaree Harbour and Belle Cote . You have the place  names of Chimney Corner , Margaree Harbour, Belle Cote and Terre Noire .
You have the lighthouses , gift shops , artisants studios , stores and dining , but also a working wharf at the end of the Belle Cote Beach Road . 


And this is one of the few locations on Cape Breton Island where you are looking at sunsets on the ocean horizon with no obstructions !!!


The Rivers 
First , there is the Margaree River which begins way inland and flows out to the GULF of St. Lawrence at  Margaree Harbour (on the South side)  and Belle Cote on the North side , and along the way it brings in the South West Margaree river at Margaree Forks that begins in Lake Ainslie . This river system is famous for it's trout and salmon fishing . Also great for a canoe or kayak trip , as you have over 20 miles of river , you can then opt to go onto the ocean and browse the coastline 


The Lakes
There is the Lake o' law on the Cabot Trail as you enter  the Margaree valley travelling from Baddeck (the Clockwise Cabot trail route) ; 
Next is Lake Ainslie which is on Route 395 that comes to the Margaree River Valley from the Trans Canada 105 route by turning left at  Whycocomagh.

The TWIN Lighthouses of Margaree Harbour

There are not that many locations where you can easily stop and walk right  up to TWO lighthouses, but you can in Margaree Harbour. So, if you are traveling the Cabot Trail or the Ceilidh Trail , then go right into the village of  Margaree Harbour , to the end of the road at the parking lot for the Margaree Harbour Beach .

Margaree Harbour  has a great sandy swimming beach , a good spot for a walk in the sand, a  roadside picnic by Lawrence's neat general store, it's the spot to relax for a moment , and look at the ocean.
Also as you look at the fishing boats across the Harbour  at Belle Cote, you might as well plan to also travel through Belle Cote and take that Belle Cote Beach Road to enjoy this little gem too.
You have all those colours on those fishing boats, and all those neat names on the boats. Say "hello" to the fishermen (if they're not too busy, of course). Watch because  you are alongside a nesting area for several types of seagulls, and terns, and on the flight path of the eagles, and another beach !!!  Many summer evenings we'll even see whales on the ocean.

Margaree Harbour Lighthouses

The Margaree River

The   first part of the puzzle is to understand that the Margaree River begins inland , maybe 30 miles or more inland at a source of water in what we call "the Highlands".

It then twists and turns through the valley to meet the ocean ( actually the Gulf of St. Lawrence ) at a harbour with the village of Margaree Harbour on the South, and village of Belle Cote on the North where all the fishing boats are sheltered. 

Along the way, many smaller "brooks" and the South West Margaree river flow into the main Margaree River. This is why we have so many , about 15 , village "settlements" along the way . Some early settlers arrived by crossing Cape Breton by land and river, while others arrived on the coast by  sailboat.

This photo is one of the many quiet places along the river between East Margaree and Margaree Harbour where you'll likely see some one in a canoe or a kayak, or fishing from the shore for trout.  

 

The secret to traveling Cape Breton Island

When folks look at a map of Cape Breton Island, chances are they are planning a vacation, a honeymoon, a hiking trip, an outdoors trip to maybe  fish or kayak, or maybe just to experience the Island , the fiddle music , or just to relax with nature, especially  during the fall colours.
The secret to enjoying a trip "around the Island" or "to the Island" is to understand the opportunity to just enjoy another world . You take the time to  travel  side trail routes and loops  within larger trail routes and loops , and these loops mean little repetition. Be brave, travel the highlands forestry roads too.
The main larger  loop is the Cabot Trail or a combination of the Ceilidh Trail with the Cabot Trail or you can reach as far as the Fleur des Lis Trail.
Now, you really want you to experience the  sort of "local" loop routes we call the "Margaree Trail". These can take a day but can also be a base location for 2-3 days because so much is within reach of the "Margaree Trail".
The "Margaree" is just not one village, it is 15 villages . There are two major rivers , two major lakes, and four fabulous beaches. So much water .

Have your map? Try Google street view !! The main "Margaree Trail" would begin from the South East travelling along the Cabot Trail at a location called Lake O'Law ( the Irish settlement Stone ) then through the Margaree River Valley ( Scotch and British settlements) through to the ocean and beaches at Margaree Harbour and Belle Cote,  and then coastal Cap Lemoine ( French (Acadian) settlements).
Another route is that you may travel towards the "Margaree Trail" by leaving  the Trans Canada Route 105 and roam  along Lake Ainslie and alongside the South West Margaree River Valley to the Route 19 and then to Margaree Forks and again the Cabot Trail.
There are several side trails and side loops that connect all these Margaree river valley and coastal villages.This is where the fun begins, as this is where you'll find the fishing pools, the waterfalls, the hikes, maybe our world renowned Pottery store , or our world renowned " quilt lady" , or a barn filled with musicians and their  celtic CB music,  a real country church hall with great dances, or maybe that cottage by the ocean.  The same applies when you travel along the coastline from say "Dunvegan to Margaree Harbour to Belle Cote to Cap Lemoine" as here again you have side trails to several beaches, look offs,  and wharves. This is the West side of Cape Breton, so that means the sunsets are on the horizon, a unique sight in itself, as no two sunsets are the same, and the sky colours against the ocean colours are always just so amazing.