The secrets of Cape Breton

At various times in the last few years  there have been sightings of white moose on Cape Breton Island. Now these are a very rare animal , and here  we have two travelling together . 

The experienced local woodsmen and outdoor fellows we asked suggest  that these two are two year olds and might be twins  or two that just came together and now  travel together .

You have to understand that there is a bit of history evolving here . People who see these animals always talk about how impressed they are and how it would be so sad should should "something happen", which really means no one  wants to see these rare white moose harmed in any way , let alone see them hunted . 

There  have been other sightings and there are  photographs of the other sightings, but the owners of many of those photographs are being very protective of their photographs as a means to protect these animals . So now you understand why we are not telling you where these two moose were sighted . 

Many people who  come to visit Cape Breton and the Cabot Trail hope to get to see a moose . 

You will see the "caution " moose symbols on highway signs all along routes 19, 219 , 395 and the  Cabot Trail itself .  Pay attention, especially if you might be travelling these  same routes after dark .

The best locations to see moose are really within the Cape Breton Highlands Park. 

Don't expect to see a white one while you driving  along the highway . The better areas for sightings for moose start at the Park entrance until you arrive at the look-off above  Fishing Cove, just before you descend into Pleasant Bay. Moose are often encountered   while walking the Skyline or nearby trails . 

Finally , remember that a moose is a very large animal and while they may look clumsy , they are not . They can move very fast and shift direction very fast. And yes, they can "rear up" like a horse and use their two front legs to stomp .  You likely couldn't out run a moose!!!! 

The fall colours of Margaree

The "fall colours"season along the Margaree River and throughout the whole Margaree -Lake Ainslie watershed will last for over a month. The colours start appearing anytime after mid September . You  u have so many hills and valleys tucked away on the many side roads such that the colours start at one  location one day and maybe in another location a  week later .
The"peak" of the colours changes every year too , but generally those first 15 days of October are going to be when the peak will happen . Now , we also have these same fall colours all along the  coast line along Routes 19, 219 and then onto the Cabot Trail all around the  tip of the Island .
The trees on hillsides facing the  ocaen are usually slower to peak and are almost a whole  different colour scheme than you see along the Margaree and South West Margaree Rivers .
Travelling to Cape Breton for the fall colours is one of those "bucket list " trips , especially if some one wants to also enjoy what is called the  Celtic Colours  festival , a musical event that spans 10 days and has venues all over Cape Breton Island . Venues where you are as up close and personal as you can ever be . Musicians from Cape Breton , Ireland, and Scotland are but a few of the treats.
The thing to remember is to plan the time to really enjoy this once in a lifetime trip . It means you should really stay at least one or two nights in the Margaree River watershed area .  To travel "around the Trail" from Margaree can be a full circle drive and done in a day ,,as the driving time for the  full loop is in the 4 - hour range plus allow another 2 hours for your stops .
The difference in the Margaree Fall colours is that you are always seeing the colours  in contrast with the colours of the rivers , lakes or the ocean .

Margaree and "Vinland"

The name "Vinland" refers to a location that many historians tell us was another location on North America where the Norsemen sailed and landed and camped .  While we have all heard about the L'Anse aux Meadows Viking site in Newfoundland , we  don't hear much about  the possibility there was also a landing site and a stay or campment  on Cape Breton  and that may have been in the Margaree valley .

On September 22, 2012 , there was a "symposium" held in Belle Cote , where several speakers came to tell their story and why they believe the Margaree River area is  very likely "Vinland" . Where the Vikings camped on Cape Breton !!!!

One speaker was Murdena Marshall, a Mi'kmag historian from Eskasoni . She stunned everyone when she told them about a game she has that belonged to her Grandfathers Grandmother. It is a large wooden platter style of item , with a type of dice and sticks . She had students visit her from Finland a few years ago and just as they were about to leave , one of the students  notices the wooden platter game board and tells her that they have a game  just like that in Finland .  Makes you wonder.

The world wide web is loaded with information , and  a good place to start is wikipedia 
at    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vinland.  

This Margaree Trail has a history that dates back to the early settlers of Canada. There are families all over the world with roots from Cape Breton and the villages along the Margaree Trail.

Time is running out as every decade that goes by , we loose some of the history because it just doesn't get "documented" or "recorded".  

The Margaree Trail information center

We have a lovely Visitor Information/Tourist Bureau at Margaree Forks , just a wee bit past the  intersection of Route 19 and the  Cabot Trail.  
Anyone travelling the Cabot Trail should stop in here to get good advice on just what you can do in the Margarees, advice on where to find the "crafters" and quilters , the best home made meals , the best music , the best beaches and hiking , and anything local.

The Margaree area is really a rather unique destination, every village has something to offer . It's a great location for extended stays, staycations , especially for those who like to get back to nature and the  out doors.  Your kids can roam and play and swim in the river or the ocean while you rest all day long .

A campfire by the river ,the lake or the ocean will be a lovely memory event .

Practically every accommodation and dining    location is ON THE WATER. 

Either on the ocean at Margaree Harbour and Belle Cote , on the river at East Margaree ,Margaree Forks , North East Margaree , Margaree Center or on the three known as Lake O'law.

The various villages along this Margaree Trail all have uniqueness. There are a variety of B&B's cottages, inns, motels and resort like facilities. History buffs can find their family roots and traces of Scottish, Irish, British   and French  ( Acadian) history by just walking several historic cemeteries dating back to the  1700's.

          The website MargareeNS.com has all the details .

This area happens to have several things that are rather world famous . The Margaree River is known throughout the  world for its trout and salmon fishing . The "fathers" of the  cooperative movement ,priests known as Father Coady and Father Tompkins grew up in the Margaree and there  is a library ,and a bit of a history collection, in their name. We also have ladies that have a world audience for their quilts or their clay pottery , or their hooked rugs.  

Music , that Cape Breton fast fiddle style , is found at several venues and several family names have had a history of producing musicians , names like Chisholm, a new generation of that same family, named  Crowley.  

The seagull side of the Margaree Trail

When people travel around Nova Scotia , we often notice that they are just going through our many seaside villages  far too fast . Maybe they  just don't have the time to take to explore , but then they'll  miss many little gems. 


One gem many miss is taking the 5-15 minutes to "drive down to the wharf" or "stop at the lighthouse".
Now, all wharves may look the same , but in real life every one is different . 
It's a bit like our light houses, every one is different .


Anyway, on the Margaree Trail , it is the Margaree River that is a focal point and next  where the river joins the ocean. 
Now , don't get confused here by place names . At the mouth of  the harbour, on the South side  is the  village of Margaree Harbour ; 
 then on the  North side is the village of Belle Cote. 
The wharf is actually located  in Belle Cote but when referred to on maps and tide charts  and in travel articles it is often call the "Margaree wharf "   or the "Margaree Harbour wharf "  , seldom the "Belle Cote wharf". Odd , because usually the wharf name matches the  village location .
Anyway, you just  remember , to get to this lovely wharf and see these gulls  , you travel on  the Belle Cote Beach Road,off the Cabot Trail , opposite the Old Belle Cote Road .

                                                  Chicks at about 4-5 days

A nest of three  

                                                  A chick less than a week old 

                                                   Chicks at about 7 days 


Now at this wharf, there  is a large seagull nesting area. So every year in early June , the chicks are born and in just a week or so they grow from a little fluffy ball to about the  size of a robin . There are also terns and geese that  nest in the same area .

                                                            A bit of history 




Now , here is a photo of how this wharf area used to look in the early 1950's  showing what some would call the "fishermen's village" .

These are the fishermen's shanties .

These  buildings were about 10 to 12 feet wide and maybe 16-20 feet long . these would have had  had bunks for two people  at least , a wood stove , table and chairs , maybe a sink .
At one time , in the 1800's to early 190's , in the horse and buggy era , the village of Belle Cote was on the hillside over two miles away , so the fishermen basically left home for the week and lived in these shanties at the wharf .

Lobster Time - Margaree Harbour 2012

May 1 is the traditional day that lobster season starts . In 2012 it was delayed a day to May 2 due to bad weather . These photos are showing a bit of  the  preparation work  involved. The traps get hauled to the wharf , and every boat has their spot . If you look closely you will see square traps and the older  curved style .  

Each trap has to have a line of rope that then connects to another rope as they'll set their traps by joining several traps into a line and then there is a buoy at each end . 

The traps are loaded on the  boats very carefully so as to "balance" the weight and to not overload. 

We always see the first day of Lobster season as the beginning of  the nicest part of Spring .

Safe sailing,  or as some say , safe "steaming".   

The lobster season is from May 1 to June 30 for the area that includes boats from the Margaree Harbour wharf in  Belle Cote to the western tip of Northern Cape Breton .

Depending on the wharf , the boats will arrive with catches usually between 11 a.m and 2 p.m ; 

they'll  leave port every morning starting around 4 a.m. 

Its tough work, a trap  gains weight as the  water penetrates the wood over the season so say a dry trap is 30 pounds, after a few days in the water that  trap will be 60-70 pounds .

If you go to a wharf to visit , always give the fishermen their space to work.